Kolkovna - Celnice

V Celnici 4, Prague 1 | +420 224 212 240
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Celnice is part of The Kolkovna Group's growing empire of restaurants in Prague. Tastfully furnished, Celnice has the charm of an old-style Bohemian hospoda without the dilapidated furniture or smoke and brewed beer-infused aromas. The interior is warm and welcoming; high vaulted ceilings help manage the noise level and, along with the wood furnishings, give the place a First Republic feel.

While business professionals working in the area may frequent Celnice (and bypassing the less fashionable "real" hospody nearby), you will often find groups of tourists dining here, too -- anything from family- to tour bus-sized groups -- and for good reason. The Kolkovna chain offers traditional Czech cuisine without the poor service that many outsiders might receive at less well-known restaurants.
Don't let the copper accents fool you -- they don't brew their own beer. This is a Pilsner restaurant.

The kitchen offers a wide selection of traditional Czech specialties including paté and tatar for starters, goulash as well as chicken or potato soup, and Czech mainstays such as pork knee, duck, goose and svíčková; more exotic choices like wild boar or lamb sausage; and less Bohemian dishes including salads, pasta, burgers, chicken wings and barbeque ribs. The meat -- keeping to traditional tastes -- while tender and filling, can lack seasoning. To add a bit of kick, try a bit of the mustard or horseradish with your meat. The various types of sausage (usually pork) are smoked and can complement other, less spicy, parts of your meal. Portions are modest in size, so don't hesitate to add a few side items.

The service is acceptable. Depending on the time, and the number of large groups around you, you may end up waiting for your meal. While slow at times, the staff won't be rude. A terrace in front is ideal for lunch or dinner during the warmer months, or a quick beer just slightly off one of the main tourist routes. The wine list is limited -- this is a beer hall, after all.

One additional note: if you're hosting a social function of your own, given one day's notice Kolkovna prepares a variety of meats on request.

While perhaps not the best Czech cuisine in town, Celnice is a no-nonesense option for giving your out-of-town colleagues, family and friends a small taste of Bohemian culture.


Our Rating (5 = excellent, 1 = poor):
Food: 3.0
Drink: 3.0
Service: 3.0
Atmosphere: 3.0

Accepted: AMEX; Visa.

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